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玛丽亚•嘉茜娅•蔻丽——Dior 2020 春夏系列背后来源于花草的设计灵感

作者:Liam Freeman 编辑:yijie.zhang 时间:2019年10月03日
内容来源:VOGUE时尚网  图片来源:Getty Images 图片库   

文章导读

“CHUANGZAOHUAYUANSHIWEIWEILAIZUODASUAN,TASHISHIZAIZAIDIWEIWOMENDESHENGHUODAILAIYANGQI。CHUANGXINYINGDANGDANFUZHEZEREN——HUANJINGHUIYINGXIANGMEIGEREN。”MALIYA•JIAQIANYA•KOULI (Maria Grazia Chiuri) WEI Vogue JIEDU Dior 2020 CHUNXIAXILIEQUANBUYIZIRANWEIZHUTIDEYINYOU——CONGZHIWUYUANXIUCHANGDAOKAISELIN•DIAO (Catherine Dior) DENVXINGZHUYINENGLIANG

玛丽亚•嘉茜娅•蔻丽——Dior 2020 春夏系列背后来源于花草的设计灵感

KELISITING·DIAO (Christian Dior) DUIHUAYUANDEMILIANZAOYIBUSHISHENMEMIMI。CONG 1947 NIANTABIAOZHIXINGDE“XINFENGMAO”XILIEDEKUOXING(DAOZHIDEHUAHUIXINGZHUANG),DAOZHUANGSHIZAIBALIMENGTIANDADAO 30 HAOQISHOUJIADIANPUQIANGBISHANGMIAOHUIDONGZHIWUDEYUEYIYINHUABUTUAN,WUBUTOULUZHEZHEIYIDIAN。Dior YISHUZONGJIANMALIYA·JIAQIANYA·KOULI (MariaGrazia Chiuri) CONGDUIFAGUODESHISHANGPINPAIHEHUAYUANDECHUANCHENGZHONGJIQULINGGAN,BINGYIRANGNIYIXIANGBUDAODEFANGSHISHEJITUICHULETADE 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE。TAMEIYOUBASHIWUHEZHUANGSHINARUKAOLVFANCHOU,ERSHIBAMUGUANGTOUXIANGLEKELISITINGDEMEIMEIKAISELIN,KAISELINSHIFAGUODIKANGYUNDONGDEYIYUAN,ERZHANQIJIANBEIGUANYAZAIDEGUOJIZHONGYING,ZHIHOUCHENGWEILEYIMINGYUANYIJIA。

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接ZHONGSUOZHOUZHI,WULUNSHIKAISELIN·DIAO(Catherine Dior) HAISHIWEITA·SAKEWEIER·WEISITE (VitaSackville-West),MEIWEIYUANYIJIADOUXIHUANDAIMAOZI,JINGUANYIZHAOGUANLIMAOZIQIARUQIFENDIFAHUIZHEQISHIYONGJIAZHI,DANZAIDior ZHEIYIJIXILIEZHONGQUECHONGDANGQILEZHONGYAODEJIAOSE。YINGGUONVMAOSHEJISHISIDIFEN·QIONGSI(Stephen Jones) JIESHISHUO,“YUANDINGMENXUYAOMAOZILAIBAOHUTAMENMIANSHOUYANGGUANGDESHANGHAI,”,TAWEIGAIXILIEDAZAOLEYIKUANYIYUFUMAOWEIFENGGEDESHEJI。TABUCHONGDAO,“[DiorZHEIYIJIDEMAOZI]CAIYONGRUISHI、YIDALI、FEILVBINHEFAGUODECAOZHIZUOERCHENG,YINCITAJIUXIANGYIGECAOMAOLIANHEGUO,”ZHEIYUFAGUOZHIWUXUEJIAJIERSI·KELAIMENTE(Gilles Clément) JIANGSHIJIEBIZUO“XINGXINGHUAYUAN”DEMIAOHUIRUCHUYIZHE。

ZAI Dior 2020 CHUNXIASHIZHUANGXIUZHIQIAN,KOULIHE Vogue ZUOZAIYIQILIAOLIAOTABENJIDELINGGANLAIYUAN:ZHIWUXUELILUNHEYANJIU,YIJITAYUYIGECHENGSHIGUIHUATUANTIDEHEZUO。

你为什么选择了凯瑟琳·迪奥 (Catherine Dior) 作为你这一季的缪斯?

MALIYA·JIAQIANYA·KOULI (Maria Grazia Chiuri) [MGC]:ZHANHOU,KAISELINCHENGWEILEYUANYISHI,BINGZAIBALIDEZHONGYANGDASHICHANGSHANGMAIHUA,HOULAITABANDAOFAGUONANBU,ZAINEILIHETADEFUQINYIQISHENGHUO。DANGKELISITINGZAIGELASI[GONGRENDESHIJIEXIANGSHUIZHIDOU]FUJINMAIXIAMOSHANCHENGBAOSHI,TADEMEIMEIKAISELINLAIDAOZHEILIJIANZAOLEFENFANGHUAHUIDEHUAPU,ZHONGZHILEMEIGUI、MOLIHEXUNYICAO。TACENGJINGSHIDIKANGYUNDONGZHONGJIJINDECHENGYUAN,HOULAIYOUCHENGWEILEYUANYISHIBINGJIANLIQIZIJIDESHIYE——ZHEIZAIDANGSHIFEICHANGSHAOJIAN。SUOYOURENDOUZHIDAOMiss Dior XIANGSHUI,DANBUSHIMEIGERENDOUZHIDAOZHEIKUANXIANGSHUIDELINGGANYUANQIYUZHEIWEINVXING。WOJUEDINGYONGZHEICHANGSHIZHUANGXIULAIXUANYANGKAISELIN,YINWEIWOQUEXINTASHIZHENZHENGDEXIANDAINVXING。

你认为是什么原因让克里斯汀·迪奥 (Christian Dior) 与凯瑟琳·迪奥(Catherine Dior) 和花园结下了不解之缘?

MGC:KELISITING·DIAO(Christian Dior) YUKAISELIN·DIAO (Catherine Dior) DEMUQINMADELINZAITAMENWEIYUGELANWEIERDEJIAZHONGZAIZHONGLEYIPIANMEILIDEHUAYUAN,JINGUANNEILIDETIANQIJIQIFUKANDAHAIDEDILIWEIZHIBINGBUSHIHEZHONGHUA。[KELISITINGHOULAIZAITADEZICHUAN《DIAOZICHUAN》ZHONGXIEDAO,TADESHENGHUOFANGSHIJIHUDOUYAOGUIGONGYUZHEIZUOFANGZIHEZHEIPIANHUAYUAN。]ZAILIJINGERZHANDEKONGBUZHIHOU,WORENWEITAMENDOUZAIZHUIXUNMEI——KELISITINGZAIGAOJISHIZHUANGZHONGZHAODAOLEMEI,ERKAISELINZEZAIHUAHUIZHONGFAXIANLEMEI。

你以假借时装来发表自己的观点而闻名。在这次的 2020 春夏系列中要如何呈现?

MGC:ZHEIYIXILIEXIANGYAOCHUANDADESHIGUANAIMEIGEREN,GUANAIWOMENSHENGHUODESHIJIE,JIUXIANGKAISELIN·DIAO(Catherine Dior) HELISHISHANGQITADENVXINGZHAOKANTAMENDEHUAYUANYIYANG。SUOYOUXIANDAINVXINGZHUYISIXIANGDOUZAITANTAORENLEIYUZIRAN,BINGJIANGZHEILIANGGESHIJIEZAICILAJIN。

你和舞蹈家有过许多次合作,从在你的 2019 春夏时装秀中表演的莎伦·伊亚(Sharon Eyal),到你为塞巴斯蒂安·波特 (Sébastien Bertaud) 3 月在罗马歌剧院上演的芭蕾舞剧《不眠之夜》(Nuit Blanche) 设计的服装。这对这一系列有什么影响吗?

MGC:JINNIANXIATIAN,WOHESAIBASIDIANHEZUOLELINGYIBUBALEIWUJU《WUTUOBANG》(Utopia),ZHEIBUBALEIWUJUZAIRUISHIDEOrigen YINLEJIESHANGLIANGXIANG。ZHEIBUWUJUYI MonteVerità [ZHENLISHAN]WEILANBEN,Monte VeritàKAOJINYIDALIBIANJING,SHIGEKEYIFUKANMAJIAOLEIHUDEFEICHANGTEBIEDEDIFANG。20SHIJICHU,YIGEYOUYISHUJIAHESIXIANGJIAZUCHENGDETUANTI[XINLIFENXIXUEJIAKAER·RONGGE (CarlJung),WUDAOJIAYISHADUOLA·DENGKEN (IsadoraDuncan),HUAJIABAOLUO·KELI (PaulKlee) HEXIAOSHUOJIAHEERMAN·HEISAI (HermannHesse) DENGREN]LAIDAOZHEILICHUANGZUOXINDEZUOPIN,TAMENTONGSHIYEYUZIRANYOULEGENGDUODELIANXI。

GUOQU,SHISHANGJIUSHIYAOXIANGTARENBIAODAZIJI。ERXIANZAI,WORENWEISHISHANGGENGDUODESHIRUHERANGNIGANJUEGENGHAO、GENGYOUZIXIN。ZHEIJIUSHIWEISHENMEWOXIHUANHEWUDAOJIAYIQIGONGZUO,YINWEITAMENZHIDAORUHETONGGUOZIJIDESHENTILAIBIAODAZIJI,YELEJIEFUZHUANGRUHENENGRANGZHEIZHONGBIAODAFAHUIDAOJIZHI。

所有这些有关自然和花园的想法为这场秀的布置带来了什么样的影响?

MGC:ZHEIYICIDECHUANGYIBUJINJINSHIYIHUAYUANWEILINGGANLAIZHIZUOFUZHUANGSHANGDEPIAOLIANGYINHUA,ZHEIDUIYUWOMENXIANZAISUOCHUDESHIDAILAISHUOBINGBUHESHI。WOFEICHANGLEJIEDIAOPINPAIDELISHI,SUOYIZHEICIDEXIANGFASHIYAOCHUANGZAOYUDANGXIADEDUIHUA。RUJIN,WOMENDOUFEICHANGQINGCHUKECHIXUFAZHANDEZHONGYAOXINGYIJIDIQIUDEZHUANGKUANG。

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接QUNIAN,WOQUCANGUANLEZAIXIXILIDAOSHANGJUBANDE《Manifesta》YISHUSHUANGNIANZHAN,OURANKANDAOLEZONGBUWEIYUBALIDEColoco——YIGEJIJIELETINGYUANSHEJISHI、YUANYISHIHEYISHUJIADETUANTI——JIANGDAZIRANDAIHUILESHEQU。ZAIZHEIYIJIDEBUJINGZHONG,WOMENJIANZAOQILEYIGEZHIWUYUAN。SHIZHUANGXIUJIESHUHOU,SUOYOUDEPENJINGSHUMUDOUHUIYUNSONGJIColoco,WEIBALISHIZHONGXINDECHENGSHIXIAOSHULINCHUANGJIANHEQITAXIANGMUTIGONGBANGZHU。CHUANGZAOHUAYUANSHIWEIWEILAIZUODASUAN,TANENGSHISHIZAIZAIDIWEIWOMENDESHENGHUODAILAIYANGQI。CHUANGXINYINGDANGDANFUZHEZEREN——HUANJINGDUIYUMEIGERENDOUYOUYINGXIANG。

2020 春夏系列的设计是否融入了这种更为整体的花园概念?

MGC:ZAIGAIXILIEDEYINHUAHECIXIUYIJIZHUBAOSHANG,WOJUEDINGYIZHURUJIHUAHEPUGONGYINGDENGZIRANWUZHONGWEICANKAO。YANSEDELINGGANZEJIQUZISHENXUEJIACHAERSI·WEIBOSITE·LIDEBITE(Charles Webster Leadbeater) HEMIAOHUILINGQI(DAIBIAOBUTONGQINGGANDEYANSE)DEHUIHUA,ZHEIXIEHUIHUAZHENGSHISHENSHENXIYINZHEMonte VeritàDEYISHUJIAMENDEZUOPIN。BALIGUOJIAZIRANLISHIBOWUGUANZUOWEISHIJIESHANGZUIDAHEZUIGULAODEZHIWUBIAOBENSHIZHIYI,YECHENGWEILEYIDAZHONGYAOZIYUAN。

DADUOSHUDEXIANGBAOHEXIELVDOUCAIYONGLEWOMENYANFADEXIUHUAFANBUJISHUZHIZUOERCHENG,XIEZIYIFANBUXIEHUOYUANYIXUEDESHIYANGWEIJICHU,CAIYONGLEPINGDIDESHEJI。JIUWOERYAN,WODEGONGZUOFEICHANGKANZHONGGONGNENGXING,ZUOWEIYIMINGSHEJISHI,WORENWEIWODEZERENBUJINSHIYAOSHEJIPIAOLIANGDEFUZHUANG,HAIYAORANGFUZHUANGJUYOUSHUSHIXING。


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