斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接

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新黑人先锋:在镜头前后为黑人争取表现机会的摄影师们

作者:Radhika Seth 编辑:yijie.zhang 时间:2019年10月15日
内容来源:VOGUE时尚网  图片来源:VOGUE时尚网  

文章导读

CEZHANREN、PIPINGJIAANTUOWAN•SAJINTE (Antwaun Sargent) DEXINSHUHEZHANLANCHENLIELERUJINSHISHANGYENEIZUIJUYINGXIANGLIDEHEIRENSHEYINGSHIMENDEZUOPIN。ZAISHIYUEFENDEFABUHUIZHIQIAN,Vogue YUSAJINTEJISIWEIJIECHUDESHEYINGSHI——TAILE•MIQIEER (Tyler Mitchell)、KANBEIER•ADI (Campbell Addy)、NAMUSA•LAIBO (Namsa Leuba) HENADING•AIJIEWEIER (Nadine Ijewere) —JINXINGLEJIAOLIU,LEJIETAMENSHIRUHEZAIYENEINULISHIXIANBAORONGXINGDE。

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“YISHUCHUANGZUOCHUXIANLEYIGUHEIRENFUXINGDEQUSHI。”ANTUOWAN·SAJINTE (Antwaun Sargent),PIPINGJIA、CEZHANRENJI 《XINHEIRENXIANFENG:YISHUHESHISHANGZHONGDESHEYING》DEZUOZHERUSHISHUO。ZHEIBENXINSHUCHENLIELEZHANLUTOUJIAO、YIYOUJIANSHUDEHEIRENSHEYINGSHIMENDEZUOPIN,TAMENZHENGTUIDONGZHESHISHANGXINGYEZOUXIANGYIGEGENGJUBAORONGXINGDEWEILAI。

除 15 位艺术家的作品合辑以外,这册作品还包括了各位摄影师照片中关于共同主题的跨代对话,以及一篇揭露他们必须克服的制度障碍的文章。“我仍常听到的反映是:人们希望雇佣更多有色人种,但很难找到,”萨金特告诉 Vogue 说:“我希望这本书能成为行业的一份资源。” 

XITONGBIANGEXUSHIDAIFA,SAJINTEXUANZHONGDESHEYINGSHIZHONG,YOUXUDUOYEZAIKUOZHANTAMENDEYEWUQUAN。SAJINTEHAIBUCHONGDAO:“KANBEIER·ADI (CampbellAddy) CHUANGLILEYIJIAMOTEJINGJIGONGSI,JIAMAER·ENXIDELA(Jamal Nxedlana) CHUANGBANLEYIGECHUBANPINGTAI,LUNNEIER·MEIDELANUO (Renell Medrano) JUBANLEYIGEZHANLAN,TAILE·MIQIEER (Tyler Mitchell) ZETUICHULETAZIJIDESHUJI。”QUNIAN,MIQIEERHAICHENGWEILESHOUWEIWEIVogue MEIGUOBANPAISHEFENGMIANDEHEIRENSHEYINGSHI。SUIHOU,ZHEIQIQIKANZHONGDEYIZHANGBIANGSI (Beyoncé) XIAOXIANGZHAOBEISHIMISENNIGUOJIAXIAOXIANGBOWUGUANSHOUGOU,GONGGULEQIZUOWEISHOUGONGYIPINDELISHIDIWEI。

纠正历史错误是萨金特的目标之一。“黑人主题影像的匮乏是他们中大部分人成为摄影师的动因之一,”萨金特解释道:“史蒂芬·塔约 (Stephen Tayo) 说他找不到自己婴孩时期的任何照片。如果你想想这些失去的历史的意义,就会感到极为悲哀。他说他开始摄影、尤其是拍摄儿童的原因,就是因为他想确保人们都能拥有自己童年时的照片。这关乎身份感的重建,既是他们自身身份感的重建,也是他们所在团体的身份感重建。” 

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接SAJINTEXIWANGDUZHEYEKANKANBENSHUYIWAIDEDONGXI。ZHEIBENSHUFABUDETONGSHI,YICHANGTONGMINGZHANLANYEJIANGKAIQI,DINGYU 10 YUE 24 RIZAINIUYUEKAIMU。“ZHEISHIYICHANGDUIZHEIXIEYISHUJIAMENDETANSUO,HUIFANGCHUEWAIDEZHAOPIAN、YINSHUAWULIAO、SHIPIN,HAIYOUYIXIETONGSHUZHEIGETUANTI,DANWEISHOULUJINSHUBENDESHEYINGSHIMEN。”TABUCHONGDAO:“WOMENDEXIANGFASHIZAIOUZHOUHEFEIZHOUZUOYIGEGAIZHANLANDEXUNHUIZHANYAN。ZHEISHIYIBENGUANYUQUANQIUYUNDONGDESHU,WOMENXIWANGZHEICIZHANLANNENGZAIZHEIXIEYISHUJIAMENJINXINGCHUANGZUODEDIFANGBEIKANJIAN。”TAXIWANGZHEIBENSHUHEZHEICIZHANLANNENGJILIJINHOUDEHEIRENCHUANGZUOZHECHUANGZAOZUOPIN,CONGERYOUNENGFANGUOLAIMENGFAGENGDUODESHUJINEIRONG。

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接WEILEQINGZHUZHEIBENSHUDEFABU,SIWEIJIECHUDESHEYINGSHIMENXIANG Vogue FENXIANGLETAMENDESHIJIAN、TAMENRENGMIANLINDETIAOZHAN、YIJIZAIJINGTOUQIAN、JINGTOUHOUNENGBIAODA(HEIREN)WEISHENMESHIFENZHONGYAO。

泰勒·米切尔 (Tyler Mitchell) (@tylersphotos)

ZHEIWEI 24 SUIDEMEIJISHEYINGSHI、DIANYINGZHIPIANRENXIANJUNIUYUE。2018NIAN,TACHENGWEILESHOUWEIWEIVogue MEIGUOBANPAISHEFENGMIANDEHEIRENSHEYINGSHI,BINGMINGLIEFUBUSI“30WEI30SUIYIXIAJIECHURENCAI”BANG。 

为什么你想参与到《新黑人先锋》一书中?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“ANTUOWANSHITUJINXINGYICHANGBIWOMENSUOYOURENDOUYAOZHONGYAODELISHIXINGDUIHUA。YINCI,ZHEIBENSHUZHONGGENGDUOCHENGXIANCHUDESHIWOMENDEXIANQUZHEMEN——KALI·MEI·WEIMUSI ( Carrie Mae Weems)、KELI·ZHANMUSI·MAWEIER (Kerry James Marshall)、ASE·JIAFA (Arthur Jafa) HESIPAIKE·LI (Spike Lee) DENGRENZUOGUOLESHENME。ZHEISHIHUIGUGUOQU、ZHANWANGWEILAI,JIANGSUOYOUZHEILEIWEIDAZUOPINYIYICHENLIECHULAI。WOXIWANGZHEISHIDIYIBUZHEILEIZUOPIN,NENGCHENGWEILISHIXINGDEBIAOGAN。”

DANGSHIMISENNIGUOJIAXIAOXIANGBOWUGUANSHOUGOUNINZAI Vogue MEIGUOBANWEIBIANGSI (Beyoncé)PAISHEDEYIFUXIAOXIANGSHI,NINDEGANSHOURUHE?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“WOMENZHENGMUDUZHESHEYINGDEGENBENZHUANBIAN,ERZHEIBIDINGSHIZHUANBIANDEYIDABIAOZHI。CONGMOUXIEFANGMIANERYAN,WOZHISHIZUOWEIYIGEPOMENERCHUDEBANGYANG,DANZHEIBINGBUYIWEIZHEGONGZUOYIJINGJIESHULE。PAISHEWANBIHOU,DANGBOWUGUANLIANXIWOSHI,WOGANDAOSHOUCHONGRUOJING、SHIFENKAIXIN,BINGQIEYISHIDAOLEZHEIYISHIKEDEZHONGYAOXING。”

您作品背后的驱动力是什么?

“XIANGFAZHIYIJIUSHIFAJUEMEIJIHEIRENXIANGSHOUXIUXIANSHIGUANGHETONGXIANGSHEHUADETUJING。SHENWEIMEIJIHEIREN,CANYUDAOSHISUSHENGHUOBINGXIANGSHOUXIUXIANSHIGUANGSHINANYIXIANGXIANGQIEJIJINDE。WOPAIGUOYIBUMINGWEIIdyllic Space DEDIANYING,ZHENGSHIMIAOSHUZHEIYIWENTIDE,TAMIAOHUILENIANQINGHEIRENNANZIZAIJIAOQUTIAOSHENGHUOZHUANHULAQUANDEMIRENCHANGJING。WOXIANGYAOBINGQIDECHUANTONGZUOFAHUIJIANGTAMENMIAOSHUCHENG(HEIRENDE)DIERTIANXING。”   

目前在时尚业从业的最大困难是什么?

“DANGNIHAINIANQING,YOUCHENGWEILEZHONGRENDEJIAODIANSHI,HUIYOUXUDUOYALIHEZEREN。WOMINGBAIWODEYISHUXINGQUSUOZAI——HEIRENSHANGYEZHAOPIAN、TUOZHANHEIRENDEKENENGXUSHIFANGSHI、ZHUDAOWOMENZIJIDEGUSHI——WOXIWANGYONGZUIHAODEZUOPINLAICHUANDAZHEIXIEXINGQU。

纳姆萨·莱柏 (Namsa Leuba)  (@namsaleuba)

ZHEIWEI 37 SUIDERUISHIJINEIYASHEYINGSHIZAI《NIUYUE》ZAZHIHE《JIEFANG》ZAZHISHANGFABIAOLETADEZUOPIN。2012 NIAN,TAZAIYEERSHIDESHEYINGJIESHANGYINGDELE“QUANQIUZHAOPIANJIANG”。

你拥有的第一台相机是什么?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“NEISHIWO 10 SUI,WOMINGBAIZIJIXIANGCHENGWEIYIMINGSHEYINGSHI,WOJUEDEMEIYOURENHUIJIWOMAIXIANGJI。YUSHIWONULIGONGZUO,JIZIJIMAILEYITAI 35 HAOMIDESUONIMONIXIANGJI。”

您灵感的最大来源是什么?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“WODESHUANGZHONGXUETONG——WOSHENGYURUISHI,MUQINSHIJINEIYAREN,FUQINSHIRUISHIREN。WOTONGSHIYEHUITANXUNYOUGUANQIYUANHEDUOYANGXINGDEXIANGFA,BINGSIKAOWOYUDAODEHUIYIHETIAOZHAN。“

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接MUQIANNINDEZHIYEGAOGUANGSHIKESHI?

“WODEDIYIFENGONGZUO,SHI《NIUYUE》ZAZHIJIWODEYIFENWEITUO。LINGYIGEGAOGUANGSHIKESHIZUOWEI Lady Dior YISHUXIANGMUDEYIBUFEN,CHUANGZAOLIANGKUANXIANLIANGBAN Lady Dior BAODAI。”

打造强势时尚影像的关键是?

“NIDEXIANGXINZIJISUOZUODESHIQING。DUIWOERYAN,YINGXIANGYINGDANGJIANJUTUXIANGXINGHEGAINIANXING。WOYANGMUDIMU·WOKE (Tim Walker)、BAOLUO·LUOWEIXI (Paolo Roversi) HESHIDIFEN·BOGE (Stefan Burger) ZHEILEISHEYINGSHIPAISHEDEZUOPIN。”

坎贝尔·阿迪 (Campbell Addy) (@campbelladdy)

ZHEIWEI 26 SUIDESHEYINGSHISHENGYULUNDUN,ZAI 2017 NIANFABULETADESHOUZHANGZUOPIN——《JIESUOSHOUER》。TAHAICHUANGLILEYIBENZAZHI Niijournal HEXUANJIAOGONGSI Nii Agency LAIFAJUEXINXINGRENCAI。

你什么时候知道自己要当一名摄影师的?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“WOYIZHIXIWANGYONGSHIJUEMEITIZUOXIESHENME,BIRUZUOGEDIANYINGZHIPIAN、DANGGEHUAJIAHUOSHEJISHI。WOSHOUDAODEDIYITAIXIANGJISHI Olympus OM - 10。WOSHANG A-Level SHEYINGKECHENGSHI,LAOSHIRANGWOCHANGSHILEJIAOPIANSHEYING。DANGWOZHENGLEYIDIANERQIANSHI,WOQUMAILEZIJIDEJIAOPIANJI,DANZHIDAOWOZAIZHONGYANGSHENGMADINGXUEYUANDUSHUSHI,WOCAIZHENZHENGKAIQILEWODESHEYINGSHENGYA。”

您是如何开始进入这个行业的?

“WOZUOGUOSHIXIZAOXINGSHIHEZHULISHEYINGSHI,WODEYIZHENZHENGYIKUIZHEIGEXINGYE,BINGYISHIDAOWEILENENGBEIKANDAO、BEITINGDAO,WOXUYAOSHIXIANZIJIDEXIANGFA。SUOYI,WOCHUANGBANLE Niijournal HE Nii Agency,QIANZHESHIYIBENTANSUOFUQUANHEBIAOXIANLIWENTIDECHUBANKANWU,HOUZHESHIYIJIAXINXINGDEMOTEHEXUANJIAOJINGJIGONGSI。”

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接NINRENGMIANLINDEZUIDATIAOZHANSHI?

“ZUOWEIYIGEQIGUAIDEHEIRENNANZI,JINJINSHISICHUCHUANSUOJIUYIJINGSHITIAOZHANLE,YOUSHIHOUWOZIJIDOUHUIZIWOHUAIYI。”

您是否看到了近年来时尚摄影的变革?

“SHEJIAOMEITIYINGXIANGLEWOMENCHUANGZUODESUDU。JIDEWOKANGUOYIGEJILUPIAN,PIANZHONGGELEISI·KEDINGDUN (Grace Coddington) HUIYILETAYUNUOMAN·PAJINSEN (Norman Parkinson) YIQIJINXINGLEHAOSHISANZHOUDEPAISHE。ERWOZHINENGGOUXIANGXIANGRUGUOYOUSANZHOUDESHIJIANLAIZUOYIGEXIANGMUHUISHIZENYANG:YINGXIANGNENGGOUBEIPEIYUCHULAI。WEILAI,WOXIWANGZHEIGEXINGYENENGRENZHENKAOLVZHEIJUHUA:‘MANSHISHANGNENGLIUCUNSIXIANG。’ZHEIJUHUACHUZIWODEPENGYOU、YISHUJIAQIAOZHINA·YUEHANXUN (Georgina Johnson)。WOXIWANGWOMENDOUNENGFANGMANBUDIAO,GUANZHUZHILIANGERBUSHIZAIYISHULIANG。

娜丁·艾捷维尔 (Nadine Ijewere)(@nadineijewere)

ZHEIWEI 27 SUIDEYAMAIJIA-NIRILIYAHUNXUESHEYINGSHICHUSHENGYULUNDUN,TADEZUOPINCENGKANDENGZAI《Allure》HE《W.》ZAZHISHANG,2018NIAN,TAWEIVogue YINGGUOBANPAISHELEFENGMIAN,SHISHOUWEIDACHENGCICHENGJIUDEHEIRENNVXING。

您是如何开始对摄影感兴趣的呢?

“WOZAIZHONGXUEDILIUNIANJISHIXIULESHEYING A-Level KECHENG,DANGSHIWANQUANSHIMONISHEYING,DANWOSHIFENXIANGSHOUSHENCHUANSHI、CHULIZIJIDEJIAOPIAN、ZHENZHENGSIKAOPAISHEDESHIGUANG,YINWEINIYONGYOUDEZHENSHUSHIYOUXIANDE。WODESHOUTAIXIANGJISHI 35 HAOMIDE Zenit,SHIZAIQICHEHOUBEIXIANGPAIMAIHUISHANGTAODAODE。”

您希望人们能从您的作品中读到什么?

“ZAIWODEZUOPINZHONG,ZONGYOUYIGEQIANZAIDEZHUTI,NEIJIUSHIQINGZHUBUTONGLEIXINGDEMEILI,YONGBUTONGDESHIJIAOKANSHIJIE。DUIYUSHISHANGSHEYING,WOZONGNENGGANDAOZIJIYUQIHAOBUXIANGGAN,YINWEIJINGTOUQIANMEIYOUYIGERENHEWOXIANGSI。SUOYI,DUINEIXIEZHENGZAILIULANWOZUOPINDERENMENERYAN,WOXIWANGTAMENNENGKANDAO,KANDAIMEILIBIAOZHUNDEFANGSHIBUJINZHIYOUYIZHONG。”

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接WEISHENMEJINGTOUHOUYONGYOUDEBAORONGXINGHEJINGTOUQIANBIAODACHULAIDEBAORONGXINGYIYANGZHONGYAO?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“WOMENDOUYONGYOUBUTONGDEBEIJING——ZHEISHISHIFENZHONGYAODE,NENGRANGWOMENXIANGHUFENXIANGXIANGFA、LVCHENGHEGUANDIAN。ZHEIGEXINGYEYEXUYAOGENGDUODENVXING,YOUQISHIYOUZHEBUTONGZHONGZUBEIJINGDENVXING。SHEYINGYIRANSHIYIGEYOUNANXINGZHUDAODEXINGYE。”  

您希望这个项目能产生何种长久影响?

斗鱼游戏平台 断开连接“WOXIWANG《XINHEIRENXIANFENG》YISHUNENGQIFAGENGDUOYISHUJIA、ZHIPIANRENHESHEYINGSHICHUANGZAOZUOPIN、GAIBIANXINGYE。ZHEIGEXINGYEYIJINGKAISHIGENGJUBAORONGXINGLE,DANWOXIWANGZHEINENGBAOCHIXIAQU,CHENGWEIYIZHONGZHUNZE。”






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